
The state of Vorarlberg in western Austria is one of the most beautiful and culturally rich places on Earth. From towns like Schwarzenberg in the Bregenzerwald to Hohenems in the Rhine Valley, these villages seem like they’ve emerged from fairytales. Yet they have so much more to offer than just their beauty.
Schubertiade, an annual festival honoring composer Franz Schubert, is held in both Schwarzenberg and Hohenems, Austria. For those unfamiliar, Schubert was born in Austria in 1797 and was a child prodigy, dying at the young age of 31. He had an extraordinary body of work including one of the most famous songs of all time, “Ave Maria.” This chamber festival attracts people from all over the world who are fans of classical music, particularly that of Schubert. The quaint village of Schwarzenberg in the Bregenzerwald has inns and restaurants, but the highlight is the stunning Angelika Kaufmann Hall. This 600-person concert hall is one of the best in Austria for more intimate performances. After the renovation in 2001, this wooden structure has perfect acoustics and a large, outside gathering area to enjoy the mountainous views of the idyllic Bregenzerwald.
The event I attended was a Lieder recital featuring baritone Konstantin Krimmel with pianist Ammiel Bushakevitz. The program was based on a song cycle from poems by Wilhelm Müller. Mr. Krimmel is a young German-Romanian singer who has performed around the world to much acclaim while Mr. Bushakevitz is an Israeli-South African pianist who has won many prestigious awards around the world. After hearing some chamber music outdoors overlooking the mountains as we gathered, the sold-out audience was ushered inside for the concert, which delighted the ears.
This festival is certainly a destination, as each night has a variety of performance types, from Lieder and piano recitals to chamber concerts. People I spoke with came from far and wide to attend this festival, and for many, this is an annual journey. Accommodations in the Bregenzerwald are lovely and plentiful. I stayed at Hotel Löwen in nearby Lingenau, Austria. This hotel looked like what you would imagine in an Austrian romantic picture book. It’s the perfect place to rest your head in between concerts over the course of the festival. All of this is located in the area called Bregenzerwald, German for Bregenz Forest. This region is a hidden secret. It may not be talked about as much as other areas surrounding the Alps, but it’s one of the most beautiful places I’ve ever visited.
A journey to western Austria would not be complete without a visit to the Jewish Museum of Hohenems.
The town of Hohenems once had a boisterous Jewish community, with a population percentage peaking around 12% in the mid-1800s. While most Jews left the town before the Nazi takeover and few returned since, Hohenems honors its past with an incredible museum. Jewish Museum Hohenems hosts a compilation of history not seen anywhere else in the world. They have artifacts from the thriving Jewish community dating back to centuries ago, all the way through the 1930s. They also continue to add new temporary exhibitions, which keep the museum fresh and interesting. We met with director Hanno Loewy who has been with the museum for over 20 years and has a deep bond to the town and its Jewish history. The stories he imparted were fascinating, and the museum will be sad to see him go with his pending retirement.
Traveling to the Austrian state of Vorarlberg to attend the Schubertiade in Schwarzenberg and the Jewish Museum in Hohenems was an absolute pleasure. These venues gave me a taste of the rich gems tucked away in western Austria. While it may not be as known as Zurich or Vienna, travelers should venture out to this gorgeous region to gain new understanding of its rich history, food, and people.